
Kos is full of surprises, and one of the best ways to experience the island’s history and natural beauty is on foot. In this post, we explore a scenic walk from Evangelistria to Haihoutes, uncovering traditional oil mills, charming churches, and a once-abandoned village that is slowly coming back to life.
Starting in Evangelistria: The Traditional Oil Mills
Our journey begins in the area of Evangelistria, a village known for its agricultural history, particularly its traditional olive oil production. Here, you’ll find three old oil mills: the Sofou Oil Mill, located opposite the Church of Evangelismos, and two more in Pera Geitonia, just after the bridge on the way to Assomatos. These mills were once central to the island’s economy, producing olive oil through a time-honored process. Each family on Kos used to have their own olive trees to supply oil for their needs, making olive oil a vital part of the local diet.
The mills operated using a simple yet efficient process: olives were ground under a stone wheel to create a paste, which was then pressed to extract unfiltered oil. The remaining oil was separated from water in a basin. You can still see the original grinding stones and presses in the Sofou and Kiapoka mills, offering a glimpse into the island’s agricultural past. Though these traditional mills are no longer in use, they stand as a reminder of Kos’ strong connection to olive oil production, which remains important even today with the advent of modern processing methods.
Churches Along the Path
As we continue on this picturesque walk from Evangelistria to Haihoutes, we encounter a few charming churches nestled in the peaceful countryside. These small chapels, each with its own history and character, reflect the deep spiritual connection of the local community. Many of them still serve as places of worship for local celebrations and religious holidays, providing a serene atmosphere along the route.
The Village of Haihoutes: A Step Back in Time
Our destination is Haihoutes, a village located on the road between the Asclepeion and Zia. Originally part of Asfendiou, Haihoutes was largely abandoned in the 1960s. Today, the village is a shadow of its former self, with many houses crumbling and overgrown by wild vegetation. However, recent interest has brought a new energy to the area.
A popular taverna now draws visitors to Haihoutes, offering delicious traditional Greek cuisine along with lively bouzouki music and dancing. The taverna owners have also established a small museum, showcasing local history and artifacts, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts. The Church of Aghios Dimitrios, which still stands amidst the ruins, adds to the village’s timeless charm.
Historically, Haihoutes has a rich and varied past. It is thought that the village’s name may come from the Armenian word “Haik” or the family name of its early settlers. The village has been inhabited by diverse groups over the centuries, with some accounts suggesting it may have housed black soldiers or Turco-Cretans. During World War II, Haihoutes’ strategic location in the hills made it a refuge, offering protection from Turkish forces.
Today, Haihoutes attracts visitors who are drawn to its unique, somewhat eerie ambiance. As you wander through the ruins and explore the remnants of its past, you’ll feel a sense of tranquility that is hard to find in more tourist-heavy parts of the island.
Conclusion
This walk from Evangelistria to Haihoutes is a perfect journey for those looking to step back in time and discover a quieter, more traditional side of Kos. From the abandoned oil mills to the charming churches and the village of Haihoutes itself, this route offers a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.
Be sure to watch the full walk in the video below and subscribe to my YouTube channel, DiscoveringKos, for more in-depth explorations of the island.